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My job was to help the buyers provide continuity and an appropriate atmosphere for the designers whose work they were ordering. IS: Did you enjoy it? GA: I was very much an observer. IS: But you must have connected with it in some way. Did you find fashion exciting? GA: I could see that at the time there were great French designers. I had had no education in fashion, no training in drawing or fashion design, absolutely none at all. I didn't work alongs. I was very much afraid of failure. I knew I had to learn everything. After that experience at La Rinascente.

I got a job working for [Nino] Cerruti. I did menswear for Hitman, Cerruti's new menswear line. It was a great experience. IS: I'm curious: what was your relationship to fashion magazines then? GA: When glancing at magazines, I knew there were big differences between what the public wanted and what the fashion magazines were proposing.

This was the time that I was beginning to form strong ideas and opinions about fashion. It was also when the world of fashion was beginning to know my work. I had total independence and autonomy on the Hitman collection. It made a great deal of money and had a big turnover. IS: You also created an advertising campaign for Hitman, which is now historic, because its point of view was revolutionary for the time. GA: This was done with Oliviero Toscani, who took the famous photograph. It was a headshot of a man with long hair. You can see his hair moving, but not his face.

The slogan said, "Hitman by Giorgio Armani.

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What did you do? No footwear, no fabric, we make fabrics, we make clothes! For the public it was something very new and it was brave of Toscani to do it. Now one sees a lot of fashion advertising like it. But this was the s. IS: Cerruti was one of the first Italian designers to show in Paris. Did that mean you were able to go there? GA: I went to Paris only to observe the Cerruti shows. His Paris collections were not designed by me, and I was a little hurt by this.

Sometimes some of the things that I did were taken and shown in Paris, though. Journalists would tell me it was obvious which pieces I had done. Working for Cerruti was a very important experience for me, because it taught me a lot and I was able to learn how to draw. For a young designer, to have a company behind you that is producing your work makes things much easier. Nino Cerruti taught me how to work and trusted me. By the time I worked with him, I had changed a great deal.

I was no longer the boy I was at La Rinascente, a little insecure. I went to the office a little late every morning. I had bought a convertible Porsche. Secondhand, of course. I dressed well. It was the s, so my hair was long. I took my dog with me everywhere, a boxer. IS: Altogether how long did you work for Cerruti? GA: Eight years. IS: When Cerruti hired you, was it a big thing for you? GA: Yes, but I think that going out on my own was actually the real "big thing. I had no formal training in design or business However, being young and naive allowed me to go for the new opportunity, ignoring the risks and my lack of experience.

I was psychologically ready for a change. I realized that at Cerruti the chances for me to grow creatively were small. By then I had met Sergio Galeotti. IS- I know how important this relationship was for you in life and work. I know, for example, that Galeotti was the one who pushed you to start designing on your own. Can you talk about th. GA- I met Sergio through friends and realized right away that he had an unusual, youthful self- confidence and inner strength. He had th. He was looking for a place where he could develop his persona. I helped him find a job In an architecture flrm When we embarked on our own company, he was often the one w.

There were also the changes being brought about by a new generation of feminism. Women needed a uniform for the mentality they were gradually acquiring. IS: A uniform — or alternatives to what there was? GA: Well, they definitely didn't need a floral skirt. IS: And they weren't finding what they needed in the fashion magazines or in fashion. GA: There seemed to be an aim to ridicule both men and women. What one saw was trends- clothes, for instance, that were obviously under the influence of Carnaby Street or the Beatles. It was media fashion.

IS: How did you personally dress? GA: A bit like an office worker with a high salary.

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My clothes were made by a tailor. I would commission six outfits a year. I was working at Hitman and yet I didn't wear Hitman clothes! I realized it was time to look for a new reality. I started to think about how to leave behind traditional dress without becoming ridiculous. There had to be a way to design for the changes that were happening in the world without resorting to flowers. IS: When you and Galeotti set up your first office in , were you both scared that you might fail? GA: Of course! When we hired our first employee, we told her to continue with her studies as we couldn't guarantee her future.

Believe it or not, this person still works for me. She helps me remember what it was like in the beginning — the courage, the fears, the triumphs. IS: Almost immediately when you started your own company, you revolutionized menswear with your now-famous unconstructed jacket. Tell me how it evolved. For instance, as a young man had you been dissatisfied with the clothes that you had found hanging in the stores? GA: As a buyer, I found it difficult because I had to please a type of clientele who could spend money on clothing, yet the clothing had very little detail and made all the men look the same.

I wanted clothing that could bring out a man's personality and compliment his body. Therefore, when I started on my own, I decided to get rid of all those "structures" in jackets. This was what was making everyone look identical. I experimented with letting the clothing fall over a man's body, bringing attention to this so-called "defect.

I thought this was essential, allowing men a more personal and real look. IS: When your revolutionary approach to menswear started to influence everything, did you sense that it would change fashion? GA: I have made some personal contributions to fashion, but fashion moves and changes continuously. Nowadays, I make deconstructed jackets in many different ways, applying them to a modern lifestyle.

Slimmer shoulders, a determined yet relaxed look. Most importantly, I want to remain true to my original concept: jackets without those confining internal structures that restrict the body. IS: Then you did it again with women's fashion. You have said that both feminism and the style of your sister and her friends, who rejected stereotypical women's clothes, are what inspired you. GA: I applied the same concepts to women's clothing, creating a new, sexy feeling of freedom. Of course, my family and friends were the first to experiment and test out my ideas.

IS: How would you describe the working dynamic between you and Galeotti? GA: He was very clever. He gave me the freedom to design and he handled the contacts with the department stores. He didn't speak one word of English. And he had complete belief in what we were doing. I remember with one of the first collections, he refused to sell it to a big department store.

We were nobody. And yet he said they had not made the minimum purchase. I could hear him explaining this in the background, and I was thinking: "What's he saying? What's he doing? Here we have the biggest department store and he's telling them no! GA: At least four seasons. IS: Go back to what you did then. Did you work in the same way that you work today? GA: I chose not to look at what was happening around me. I started with a blank sheet of paper each season.

Even today, it's a real drama— once I have found my way. I have a style to maintain, but I have to renew it and evolve it. Sometimes this renewal has led to collections that are too drastic. IS: Such as? GA: In the early s I did a collection inspired by Japan that was too theatrical. The colors were not mine. After that I decided that for me there was only one way. And above all I learned not to listen to other people. That's dangerous. IS: In the early days if you were going to listen to someone, was it Sergio?

GA: He was a good judge of my work. But he was very enthusiastic. Sometimes I felt that he was too readily pleased. IS: In terms of the development of your vision, was there something that was going on somewhere, in another field perhaps, that inspired you. Some parallel development somewhere that related? Something in art. GA: Well, it was more indirect. At the beginning I was accepted above all by artists, actors, and architects, artistic types of people who understood how my jackets were constructed, who understood that the fault was not a fault but a quality.

They understood that the suits I was designing were meant not to be restrictive. As these are the kind of individuals who wear old jackets, old pullovers, and like them when they are used and not when they are new, they felt a certain affinity to my fashion, and I felt one to them. IS: Were there photographs that you saw that reinforced your vision, like the famous photographs of Picasso in his striped T-shirts?

GA: You mean from the end of the s? They were the finest years in fashion. Very inventive. Very revolutionary. Not bourgeois. Dali or Picasso from that time is the sort of atmosphere and class that I wanted to have in fashion. I tried to use that kind of idea and modernize it. There were also photographs of the young Gary Cooper that affected me. That was the style that I found very sexy— very strong, not stiff, not too constraining.

The suit does not cover the body, but instead puts it in evidence. But I have to say that an interest in these kinds of mixtures have also belonged to other designers. I'm thinking of [Yves] Saint Laurent first. IS: Absolutely. What's interesting is how you all ended up with such different results. You've all come at it so differently.

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GA: I've always tried to make clothes that are without references. That has sometimes been my problem with the fashion press. There haven't been easy references to explain what I've done. IS: But there are a few people who you've said did, in fact, directly inspire you— like Matisse.

GA: How can you remain indifferent when you see a composition of colors in a painting by Matisse? You cannot remain unaffected by the way he paints a window, an interior in Nice, the street. There is such harmony, such invention and lightness in his work; this is what I like most, the philosophical simplicity. The simple flower becomes something unforgettable. I like Matisse's late works less. I find them more difficult to understand, and less poetic. But Matisse's work has given me a lot. It gave me the chance to use color in a very important way early on.

Early Picasso has also been important to me: the purity of his drawings, their clarity, their spirit, and their modernity. IS: How about Picasso as a figure? GA: At times I find the myth a little embarrassing, a little heavy, overly self-important. IS: While we are on the subject, are there any other artists whose work has been important to you?

GA: Giorgio Morandi. IS: Of course. GA: Morandi has a color palette very similar to mine. Three beiges, four grays. In his work, a slight variation makes all the difference. IS: You've just touched on something that leads to the crux of what your work seems to be aiming for: Since establishing your vocabulary, you've always talked about a consistent vision. Doesn't your approach make it difficult for you in fashion, which seems to feed off changes and trends so much?

You are going for the subtle Morandi approach, whereas fashion thrives on the idea of the new, even if it's old. GA: In the world of fashion, if you don't follow the trends the press can ignore you. You are supposed to be yourself, yet at the same time follow the trends. IS: How have you responded to this issue? GA: By getting mad. Fashion is made up of excesses, peaks, exaggeration, fanaticism.

I'm against fanaticism. In the end I think the most difficult thing to do is the simplest thing. Fashion has to change. It has changed over the past fifty years, but it has to change more. I think people must not bow to dictates by those who deal with fashion in the broadest sense of the word. Specifying that skirts must be to the knee one season and shorter the next should end.

I challenge that way of thinking. The fact that a woman looks good in one style doesn't necessarily mean she feels comfortable in another. People must not be the victims of input given by a group of people who decide what fashion is and what it isn't. It should be remembered that certain principles of elegance that were accepted thirty years ago are now obsolete. The mentality today is different. IS: Tell me your philosophy about getting dressed up. GA: Years ago. It represented a special social coding, reflecting certain social classes.

Today, there is more freedom from a visual point of view, and differences are masked. I pay more attention to the cut of an outfit and the quality of the material than to an overall head-to-toe look. A few years ago, elegance meant "super minimalism," but today I think elegance refers to something that is informal, relaxed, casual, and without excess. Dressing up is less about fur and pinstripes and more about the "Jackie 0" black T-shirt and white chinos.

Most importantly, it is a mentality that gives great value to simplicity. IS: It seems like you've created the clothes for more movies than any other designer, which must be gratifying since you've had a love of movies since you were a child. How are your designs for movies connected to your other work? GA: I am not a costume designer, so when I work on film projects, it is always directly related to my fashion. IS: What do you think when you watch something like the Oscars?

GA: It is a very interesting phenomenon when designers and stylists try to dress actors and actresses. Unfortunately, there are too many people— stylists, hairdressers, friends— who push the stars to choose retro outfits, rather than concentrating on what really suits them— often with disastrous results. I am lucky to have long-standing relationships with actors and actresses. If they attend the Oscars and decide to wear Armani, it is because they like Armani and feel good wearing it. IS: Do you think there's a place for fantasy in fashion? GA: Absolutely, a very big place! There is a strong need to innovate and personalize like never before.

This sometimes means that you don't follow the trends for a season with the possibility of being ignored by certain fashion magazines. But it's necessary if you want to break away from cliches. IS: It could be said that the contemporary fashion mentality would not be what it is if it hadn't been for what you have done in men's and women's fashion. GA: To me, you shouldn't wear anything that defines you in a way that does not match your personality. It has to do with attitude, with the freedom to adapt what you are wearing to your needs.

It's not about wearing something that looks like it doesn't belong to you, either psychologically or physically. IS: Did your sister have a lot to do with how you came to understand what women wanted? GA: I have great respect for women; I don't use women for personal amusement. In the s Rosanna was something of a slave to fashion. Then I think she was embarrassed by this, as she had started to understand what her own style was. I love the way she dresses. She wears anonymous shirts and trousers, and she has an important face.

The less fashion she wears, the more beautiful she is. She is very much like my mother. I dress like that, too. It is like a uniform. This is something I've always used for both men and women. IS: But uniforms can feel authoritarian. GA: No, I'm talking about something personal, not authoritarian — something that has no useless details, a nice cut, a nice shape, something that adheres to the body. IS: The inevitable question to a designer is: How have other cultures influenced you in your work? It is always a tricky one because fashion's take in this regard can be very superficial, the same way it can get when it uses art for inspiration — it can be vampiric and touristy.

GA: You are right. It is easy to fall back on the theatrical and do costumes. But I must say that the East has had a definite influence on me, with its rational style of dress; a small jacket with a mandarin collar is the utmost in elegance and comfort. In all my collections there is definitely a touch of the East — always. IS: I know you travel, but it also feels to me that when you touch on a theme, it can come as much from a photograph or from your imagination as from an actual journey. GA: You have to use a theme to match it to your style and not vice versa.

For example, I once did a Cuban collection, although I had never been to Cuba. I had seen a portrait of Diego Rivera, and this led to the collection. It was a collection that I dreamed up. IS: Give me another example of how you work. GA: One summer I had bought a necklace for my sister as a present, an archeological necklace that I had gotten from an antiques dealer. I was holding it in my hand. I could imagine a woman in the s— the wife, say. This led to an entire collection. It was based on this woman from the s, brought up-to- date.

Often my collections spring from an idea of this type, not from having researched a period of fashion. When I was young, I once created an eveningwear collection with a lot of embroidery. I wanted it to give the impression of a woman who, at the end of a long evening, returns home along the seashore and holds her skirt and her shoes up so that they don't get wet.

That was the atmosphere of that collection; I wanted a relaxed look. IS: Tell me about the recent collection that invoked the work of Vasily Kandinsky. GA: I've always liked his graphic work. It wasn't a literal imitation of Kandinsky, but rather I wanted the clothes to have the same explosive energy that his work has. IS: That energy is a good metaphor for what you've done with your business. But there was a moment, when your partner. Was there ever in your mind a question of stopping?

GA: It certainly was a moment of great despair and anguish. I had no other choice but to go ahead and bank on my confidence. I made decisions carefully, learning from my mistakes as I went along. It wasn't easy then, nor is It easier now. But I'm glad I was able to tackle it. The bus. This is work that gives you no way out. It's a job that doesn't let you sleep, or really take a holiday, because your mind is always focused on it.

It is a very difficult job, but enjoyable. We didn't do it out of a desire for wealth or fame. He'd always believed in my strengths, and I didn't want to disappoint him. Therefore there was a great desire to make it. I wanted to show that his confidence in my work was fully justified. I kept going for the same reason. IS: You ended up not just continuing the company, but also taking on what he had been in charge of as well. Didn't you have obstacles when you also took charge of the business side?

GA: It was another challenge. Some said a designer cannot be a businessman too. IS: Well, you've made mincemeat out of that cliche about creative types and business being oil and water. GA: It was very difficult, though. I didn't really know my firm. I had left a lot of the responsibility to Sergio. He had many direct outside contacts and I had less. A lot of people said. I have to say that I've had some great coworkers, people who have helped me, although in the end the decisions are mine.

My work is highly diversified, and I never work alone. I work with other people and I like the discussions of: Do you like this? Do you think this? Then I decide. I like to work this way. It keeps me alive, in constant tension. IS: One of the most interesting collaborations between art and fashion that I have seen was the one you did with Robert Wilson in Florence in June It was so riveting— the mix of style, lifestyle, and technology. It felt so prescient. Why do you think it is interesting for designers to work with other kinds of artists 9 GA: I think that working only in your own field can make you lose some objectivity.

A person who is outside your world can offer great insight. Bob Wilson's point of view on some of the clothing for that Florence show was essential to the outcome of the presentation. IS: Over the years, you have also overseen your own advertising. GA: Yes, with Rosanna handling it for a long time. Again the philosophy is to be at the service of the public. The public is represented by consumers, who mustn't be taken for a ride. It must be a sincere and direct relationship: "I'll make these clothes for you, I'll show them to you in the best possible way, in the atmosphere I consider appropriate, and, if you like them, go buy them.

IS: So, when you oversee an ad for a new women's perfume, say, what is in your mind in terms of creating a world for people to live in? GA: The advertising has to show that I don't like women who, when they go into a lift, leave a tremendous waft of perfume in their wake.

IS: Laughs. You are known for being unswerving in your beliefs about what's right for Armani — even when everyone around you is pressuring you to do something else. Because you work in fashion, I'm sure there are people saying: "Giorgio, you have to be up to date, or Giorgio, this is the trend. At times I wonder if I'm right to say no.

Do I really have to say no to everyone? Sometimes you cannot express why it's a no. It has to do with something very personal in your mind, in your feelings and emotions. But sometimes you can say yes. In the end, you know what you wanted to do, in the months when you produced those drawings, those clothes, and you have to know this right up to the end.

Translated from the Italian by Roberta Armani. Giorgio Armani 2. Giorgio Armani with his mother, Maria. Giorgio Armani with his mother, Maria, and brother. Sergio 4 Piazza de'Cavalh. Piacenza, 5. Giorgio Armani dressed for his first communion. Giorgio Armani with friends and family at Laghi d'Avio Term , 8. Giorgio Armani with his mother, sister, and brother 9. Giorgio Armani with his sister Giorgio Armani with friends on vacation Giorgio Armani during his military service Giorgio Armani with his mother and brother, Giorgio Armani with his sister and brother Ugo Armani Giorgio Armani with his brother and a friend.

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